Gilded Mansions – June 19th, part one

The continental breakfast at the Super 8 offered a nice variety and was appropriately yummy.  Toast, oatmeal, sweet rolls, fruit, hot coffee and tea. We settled our account, turned in our motel keys, loaded the Honda, and were off again.  We had made good time and tracked great distance so our first destination – Newport Rhode Island – was within comfortable reach.  I was really nervous about going anywhere near New York City, but the new bridge and the expressway made it a breeze, and we didn’t even have to slow down.  Just to imagine that I was driving even within sight of New York City gave me a rush!  We were out and around the worst of it before I even realized what had happened.  As they say, “Wait. What???” The suspension bridge was almost a work of art in itself.  I felt comfortable driving and Cordelia was faithful and accurate in her instructions.

We entered Connecticut and before long saw a pulloff for a scenic view of Mystic Harbor.  The day was overcast but dry and we took several photos of the boats.  Kath made a comment about a wooden historic-looking masted ship docked across the bay.  She remembered a little bit of history from a previous visit and gave me a verbal sight-seeing synopsis as I drove.

Shortly before noon we crossed the bridge and drove into Newport.  It was a quaint, delightful little seaport, with brick side walks and touristy shops, and tons of boats and ships docked at the wharfs.  We wove slowly through the narrow streets, making our way to the first stop – the visitor’s center for the Gilded Mansions of Newport; the summer cottages (???) of the wealthy in the late 1800’s.  After parking, we went inside and chose our ticket grouping.  Five mansions, to be seen any time for the life of the purchaser.  So if we go back in, say, fifty years, we can see the ones we missed on this trip!  I personally can’t see myself driving back to Newport at the age of 119 years!  But, just possibly NEXT year! Something to look forward to – but I don’t want to jump too far ahead.  I was still looking forward to BOSTON!

We paid for our ticket choice, got a pamphlet and a map, and made our route.  First stop:  The Breakers!  Thankfully the overcast morning gave way to sunny skies and a comfortable breeze.  And also thankfully each mansion had its own free parking area adjacent to the house.  Even the sections of construction work outside

did not detract from the magnitude and magnificence of the mansion.  This home was built by Cornelius Vanderbilt II for his family’s summer home originally in 1885.  The home was named for the sound of the waves breaking against the rocks on the shore.

Inside we were given a ‘smart phone’ with headphones.  We could tour at our own pace, go through the rooms one at a time and hear the stories and descriptions as we went.  Marble floors, enormous staircases, indoor fountains, bedroom after bedroom after bedroom, TWENTY bathrooms, the library, sewing room, billiard room, sitting room, second floor loggia overlooking the water… It was all very grand, very opulent, very amazing.  It felt like we were drinking from a deep pool of cold water, thirsting for the beauty and the history and the stories of a people (the 400!) and a society that was unprecedented and unequaled.  My favorite part of this home was the view from the second floor loggia.

There was an alternate choice of additional stories about the Vanderbilts, and it was SO tempting to stop and listen to each one!  But time was limited, and if we wanted to see even two of these gilded mansions, we needed to stick to the main scripted tour.  Bummer.

And as a side note, if you like to read fiction books, check out Alyssa Maxwell’s Gilded Mansion book series.  The first one is entitled Murder at the Breakers and is a great read!  It was very fun to read the book, picturing the little town of Newport, the neighborhoods, and each room of the mansion as she took us on the quest of solving the murder. I just finished the third book – Murder at Beechwood -and it’s even better than the first! Already ordered the next three.  Read them!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the Breakers we went to Chateau-Sur-Mer, built in 1852 in the Italianate villa style.  It belonged to William Shepard Wetmore after making his fortune in the China Trade.  Although much less impressive than The Breakers, it was still impressive.  The home is full of paintings and carvings and furnishings created world-wide and by artists well known in their trade.  The interior was of darker woods and paneling but very rich and textured.  My favorite part of this home was the exterior style with its four-story tower. And I was impressed by the fact that at one point Mr. Wetmore entertaining George Peabody of London with a party that had more than 3000 guests from Europe and America.  And the view at the time would have been impressive, as the name means literally ‘Castle by the Sea’.

 

 

 

We chose carefully, and our third mansion was the Elms.   This home was built by Pennsylvania coal magnate Edward Julius Berwind and was built as an adaptation of the chateau d’Asnieres near Paris.  In its day, the gardens boasted a brass band in the yard, and had the chatter of a throng of pet monkeys scampering about the lawn.  My favorites at this mansion were the impressive view of the breakers from the back, the sunken gardens with fountains and terraces, and the airy conservatory.

To be continued –  as the morning and the afternoon of the second day – And again, the sisters saw that it was good – with more to come!